Our first surprise was how much quieter and more orderly Italy has become since our last visit, with far less honking of horns and revving of engines. This was particularly noticeable in Rome where crossing the road presented no problem!

We were also struck by the contrast between the young mayor of Terracina who welcomed us so warmly dressed in jeans and the television weather forecaster formally dressed in full military uniform.

The scent and sight of the flowers and fruit will also stay with us: figs, lemons, roses, bougainvillea, oleander and the overpowering fragrance of jasmine – all bathed in constant Mediterranean sunshine.

However, our lasting impression of Terracina must be the warm welcome and kindness of our hosts, combined with the delicious, fresh, homemade food. Such great pride was taken in the preparation of our meals and such delight in our enjoyment of them. Having stayed up until midnight, Anna’s 80 year old mother had got up at 4.00 a.m. to finish her preparations for our lunch: homemade pasta, pizza and bread cooked in an old wood-burning oven. What an experience it was to see her at work in her kitchen! During our stay we were offered fresh fish, mozzarella, focaccia, home-cured prosciutto, homemade wine, fried dough balls, ricotta with honey, wonderfully succulent tomatoes and strawberries and a wide variety of antipasti, not forgetting the omnipresent bowls of huge figs. Anna was quite correct in saying that the best friendships are forged over the sharing of food!

John and Joyce Burgess